In Part 2 of Hitty Bee’s Holiday Wardrobe we will cut our fabric pieces and prepare them with a little stitching, then we’ll trace the pattern(s) onto the fabric.
Hitty Bee’s Basic Blouse is shown with contrasting lining in a different fabric, and Hitty Bee’s Fancy Blouse is shown with matching lining in the same fabric, but both blouse patterns can be used with either method.
Step 2 : Cut Rectangles for Skirt and Blouse
For the skirt, cut a rectangle 10 x 6 1/2 inches.
If your blouse will be lined with the main dress fabric, cut a single rectangle 4 x 12 1/2 inches. If your blouse will be lined in a different, contrasting fabric, cut two 6 1/2 x 4 inch rectangles: one from the main fabric and one from the lining fabric.
Fold the skirt piece lengthwise and bring the two long edges together, with right sides together. Pin, and stitch with a normal stitch length and a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Set aside for now.
Single-Fabric Blouse: For the single piece blouse, fold the fabric with right sides together, and stitch the two short edges together with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Turn the fabric so the seam is about one inch from one of the two folded edges, and iron flat, pressing the folded edge on right and left. Iron the seam open, then trim the seam allowance down to a scant 1/8 inch and press again.
Two-Fabric Blouse: For the two-fabric blouse, place both rectangles facing each other with right sides together, and stitch both short edges with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Step 3 : Trace the Pattern onto the Bodice Piece
I’m using an indelible black pen in the photos below for better visibility, but you should trace your pattern using whatever is best for your fabric color and type. A mechanical pencil often works well, and a pen is fine if your fabric is thick enough so it won’t show through. You might wish to use a white colored pencil or some other kind of dressmaker’s pen or pencil, found in sewing supply stores. The important thing is that you can see your line well enough to sew on it, and that it doesn’t bleed or show through your fabric.
For the Fancy bodice, the edges of the pattern sleeves will be placed flush against either folded side. The stitched and opened seam is properly placed if it is close to the center of one arm. It should be more than 1/4 inch from the bodice and at least 1/2 inch from the folded edge of the sleeve.
For the Basic Blouse, place the pattern between the two stitched lines.
Trace the outline of the pattern onto the fabric. Next we’ll work on the neckline.